Travel Like The Wind : Suchart Choolee
If we let our minds drift along the breeze over the still waters of Khlong Bang Luang and close our eyes to imagine the scenes of the past once filled with paddled boats of King Taksin the Great’s royal entourage, the lively sounds of people on both banks, and the cheerful calls of vendors selling their goods, we would find ourselves touched by the gentle yet powerful story of two mosques standing proudly on opposite sides of the canal — Tonson Mosque and Bang Luang Mosque (Kudi Khao).
These two mosques are not merely places of worship for the Muslim community but the cultural roots of people who migrated and settled here both before and during the Thonburi period — the era of King Taksin the Great, who united people of diverse ethnicities and faiths to rebuild the nation after the fall of Ayutthaya.
Tonson Mosque is considered one of the oldest mosques on the Thonburi side. It was built toward the end of the Ayutthaya period by Malay and Persian settlers who arrived by boat and made this place their home. The name “Tonson,” meaning “pine tree,” was inspired by the pines that once grew thickly along the canal, symbolizing peace and steadfast faith.
Across Khlong Bang Luang stands Bang Luang Mosque, locally known as Kudi Khao, which is nearly 300 years old. It was built by Indian and Persian Muslims and features architecture that blends Thai design with early Rattanakosin European influences. Its elegance and distinctive style have earned it recognition as one of the most architecturally remarkable mosques in Thailand.
Between the two mosques flows Khlong Bang Luang, once part of the old Chao Phraya River, the waterway that passed by the Old Palace of King Taksin the Great. This canal was also the heart of the historic Kudi Chin Community, a neighborhood that beautifully reflects Thailand’s cultural and religious diversity, where Buddhists, Christians, and Muslims have lived side by side in harmony for centuries.
In Kudi Chin, you can follow the sweet aroma of the traditional “Khanom Kudi Chin” cake wafting from old wooden houses, hear the bells from Santa Cruz Church, and listen to the adhan call to prayer from Bang Luang Mosque. These sounds and scents together tell the story of a community bound by understanding and respect — a way of life as graceful as the wind that whispers through time.
Standing by the canal, gazing at the calm Tonson Mosque and the elegant Bang Luang Mosque across the water, you can feel the strength of faith that has endured through the centuries and understand why the people here continue to cherish and protect these two riverbanks as the heart of their home.
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