Travel Like The Wind : Suchart Choolee
The ancient bell tower, locally known as the “Chedi Yak” or “Giant Pagoda,” stands as the most remarkable landmark of Wat Phraya Tham Worawihan, a third-class royal monastery situated on Arun Amarin Road, Bangkok Noi District, Bangkok. The temple was originally called Wat Nak (“Temple of the Nāga”) and paired with Wat Klang on the opposite side of the Mon Canal. It is believed to date back to the late Ayutthaya period. During the reign of King Rama II, His Majesty King Phra Phutthaloetla Naphalai (Rama II) commissioned Chao Phraya Rattanathibet (Kun), the Minister of State, to completely rebuild the temple and elevate it to royal status under the new name Wat Phraya Tham Worawihan.
The bell tower, a fine example of Rattanakosin-style architecture from the reign of King Rama III, is a two-tiered brick and stucco structure decorated with glazed ceramics. At its base are four arched niches, each adorned with intricate sculptures of Garuda subduing Nāga, while powerful guardian giants stand gracefully at each corner. The tower was restored during the reigns of King Rama III, King Rama V, and most recently in 1994 (B.E. 2537). It is currently undergoing further conservation as the structure has begun to lean due to foundation subsidence.
The ordination hall (Ubosot) is built on a gently curved base resembling the hull of a ship—an architectural feature reminiscent of the Ayutthaya style. The pediment depicts the god Indra seated upon his celestial elephant, Erawan. Inside, the principal Buddha image is enshrined in the Maravichai posture. In front of the Ubosot stand two twin pagodas, one of which is the famous “Chedi Yak,” symbolizing enduring faith and the splendor of Thai artistry.
The figure of Garuda, prominently featured on the bell tower, represents the semi-divine being who serves as the mount (vahana) of Lord Vishnu. In Thai tradition, Garuda embodies royal power, majesty, and loyalty to the nation. The Garuda Phah emblem has thus been the royal insignia of Thailand since the Ayutthaya period and remains in official use today.
Garuda’s association with Thai culture traces back to the Indian concept of Devaraja—the divine kingship—where the monarch is viewed as an incarnation of Vishnu. As Garuda is Vishnu’s celestial mount, he came to symbolize the king’s divine authority. During the Ayutthaya period, this emblem was known as the Royal Garuda Seal. In the reign of King Rama IV, Garuda was featured on the Maharaj Flag, flown wherever the king resided. Later, King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) reinstated the Royal Garuda Emblem as the national seal, a tradition that endures to this day.
Today, the Royal Garuda is seen on government buildings, official documents, and as a royal warrant of appointment bestowed upon reputable and trustworthy businesses. It remains one of the highest symbols of honor and integrity in Thailand.
For those wishing to follow the mythic traces of Garuda and Nāga, a short 30-kilometer journey from Bangkok leads to the Garuda Museum at Bang Pu Industrial Estate, Samut Prakan Province. Established by Thanachart Bank, it is the first and only museum in the world dedicated to Garuda. The museum preserves Thailand’s deep reverence for the sacred bird—an emblem of divine kingship and a reflection of the profound connection between faith, art, and the Thai spirit.
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