TravelLikeTheWind : Suchart Choolee
Commonly known as Wat Khaek Silom, is a Tamil Hindu temple located at 2 Silom Road, Bang Rak district, Bangkok. It was established as a place of worship for the goddess Mariamman, a local deity from South India who is regarded as an avatar of the goddess Uma, consort of Shiva, according to Hindu polytheistic beliefs. Mariamman is the principal deity of the temple.
The temple’s history dates back to the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) around 1910-1911, when Tamil devotees settled in the areas near the Silom canal and Hua Lamphong. Initially, a wooden shrine was built beneath a neem tree in a sugarcane field by the canal. Later, the founding committee, including Mr. Vaithi and other Hindu merchants, secured permanent land by exchanging plots with a local landowner near the intersection of Pan Road and Silom Road. Sacred statues were brought from India, with Mariamman as the main deity, alongside stone carvings of Ganesha and Kartikeya, who are traditionally worshipped first before other gods in Hindu rituals.
The temple’s architecture showcases the ancient Dravidian style, blending Chola and Pala influences typical of South Indian temples, especially in Tamil Nadu. The main shrine faces Pan Road and is divided into three sanctums: the central one housing Mariamman, the left for Ganesha, and the right for Kartikeya. Access to these inner sanctums is restricted to qualified Brahmin priests. In front of the temple stands a tall golden pole topped with a large yonilinga, decorated and raised during the Navaratri festival. The temple grounds also feature three smaller shrines dedicated to Shiva (symbolized by the Shiva lingam), Brahma, and the Navagrahas (nine planetary deities), as well as various local South Indian gods.
Navaratri, a nine-night Hindu festival held in the 11th lunar month, is the temple’s most important event. On the final day, known as Vijayadashami, a grand procession celebrates the goddess’s victory and blessings. Devotees from diverse backgrounds gather to honor Mariamman and seek blessings, particularly for love, fortune, and fertility. This festival vividly reflects the rich cultural and spiritual diversity within the heart of Bangkok.
Navaratri Festival at Wat Phra Sri Maha Uma Devi (Wat Khaek, Silom)
The Navaratri Festival is one of the most important Hindu celebrations, held to honor the triumph of Goddess Durga (also known as Uma Devi) over the demon Mahishasura. The festival spans nine nights or nine days and usually falls in September or October, according to the Hindu calendar. The highlight occurs on the tenth day, known as Vijayadashami, which marks the most significant day of the festival, with a grand procession of the deity.
Background
Origin of the Name:
The word “Navaratri” comes from Sanskrit: Nava means “nine,” and Ratri means “nights,” thus translating to “nine nights.”
Meaning:
Navaratri celebrates the victory of Goddess Durga (or Uma Devi in her various forms) over the buffalo demon Mahishasura. The battle lasted for nine nights and ten days, ending with the goddess’s victory on the tenth day.
Celebrations
During Navaratri, different forms of Goddess Durga are worshipped each day to ward off evil. The worship also includes Goddess Lakshmi (who grants wealth) and Goddess Saraswati (who bestows wisdom), symbolizing a complete invocation of blessings in all aspects of life.
Timing
Navaratri is held twice a year, with the more widely celebrated one occurring at the beginning of the winter season.
In Thailand, the Navaratri Festival is held at Wat Khaek on Silom Road — one of the most significant Hindu temples in the country. The exact dates are determined annually according to the Hindu calendar.
In 2024, the festival will take place from October 2 to 14.
In 2025, it will begin on September 23, 2025.
Key Rituals
Procession:
The main highlight is the grand procession of the deity Uma Devi and other deities through Silom Road on the tenth day, Vijayadashami — marking the climax of the celebration.
Worship:
During the nine nights, devotees worship Goddess Uma Devi, Goddess Lakshmi, and Goddess Saraswati in a rotating sequence, each representing different aspects of divine blessings.
“Thanks to the video clip by: Thaibunterng ThaiPBS
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