Chao Pho Phra Kan – The Guardian Deity of Lopburi
Travel Like The Wind : Suchart Choolee
In the history and beliefs of the people of Lopburi, Chao Pho Phra Kan is revered as the city’s guardian deity, known for his sacred power and deeply respected by locals and visitors alike. In ancient scriptures, he is referred to as Phra Kan Chai Si, a divine figure who protects the city much like the deities Phra Suea Mueang and Phra Song Mueang found in other parts of Thailand. However, what sets Phra Kan Chai Si apart is his association with death, making him a deity both feared and worshipped. People seek his blessings for safety and protection while also believing that his power can deter enemies and harm.
The Phra Kan Shrine, once called Sarn Sung or “High Shrine,” is named for its elevated position atop a large laterite base. It is believed that this base was originally intended to support a Khmer-style prang (tower), either left unfinished or later collapsed without restoration. This laterite foundation stands as a remnant of ancient Khmer influence, signifying the period when Lopburi served as an administrative and cultural center of the Khmer Empire in the Chao Phraya River basin. Archaeological finds, including ancient Khmer and Mon inscriptions discovered near the shrine, attest to the site’s historical importance.
During the reign of King Narai the Great in the 17th century, a small guardian spirit shrine was built on the original base. It featured architectural styles influenced by Thai, French, and Persian design, reflecting the king’s cosmopolitan tastes and openness to foreign culture. The shrine was a single-story structure with three rooms. Inside, it housed sacred relics including a lintel depicting Narayana reclining on the serpent Ananta and a black stone statue, later known as Chao Pho Phra Kan.
In 1878, during a royal visit to Lopburi, King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) documented his impressions of the shrine. He described the elevated location, the large banyan tree providing shade, and the three-room structure that contained various sacred figures, such as Lord Vishnu (Phra Narai), Lord Shiva (Phra Isuan), and the goddess Uma. He also noted the artistic details and arrangement of ancient relics scattered around the site.
By 1922, the original three-room shrine had significantly deteriorated, prompting the relocation of the black stone statue to a temporary wooden pavilion covered with a zinc roof at the base of the prang. Later in 1952, a new shrine was constructed, designed in a contemporary Thai architectural style by the Fine Arts Department under the leadership of Mom Chao Yachai Chitrabhongse, with the support of then-governor Chalo Vanaphuti, local residents, and many devout followers. Completed in 1953 at a cost of over 300,000 baht, the new shrine stands proudly before the ancient prang ruins.
The current statue of Chao Pho Phra Kan is believed to be an ancient Lopburi-style image, possibly representing Vishnu or the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara. Originally, the statue had a black body, with no head or arms. According to legend, the deity appeared in a devotee’s dream asking for a suitable head and arms to be added. Devotees later found and attached a sandstone head from the Ayutthaya period and added two arms, though the original statue is thought to have had four.
Today, the once-black statue no longer appears as such, having been completely covered in gold leaf by faithful worshippers over the years. It now gleams with golden brilliance, a powerful symbol of devotion.
The Phra Kan Shrine is not only a historical landmark but also a spiritual center for the people of Lopburi. It represents an enduring blend of art, culture, and belief, passed down through generations. Each year, over 100,000 people are estimated to visit the shrine, seeking blessings, protection, and a connection to this ancient guardian of the city — a testament to the enduring faith and spiritual heritage of Lopburi.
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