A Sacred Vow of Two Lands, Etched in Loei
Travel like the wind : Suchart Choolee
In the land of Dan Sai, embraced by the mountains of Loei, a pearly-white stupa stands in tranquil majesty. Named ‘Phra That Si Song Rak,’ this sacred site is not merely a place of worship for the Thai and Lao people; the monument is a chronicle of the ages, a grand memorial sculpted with the story of friendship and harmony between two kingdoms. A living testament to a sacred vow that time cannot erode.
The curtains of time draw back to the Ayutthaya period, around 1560 A.D. When the dark shadow of war cast by King Bayinnaung of Hongsawadi loomed, King Maha Chakkraphat of Ayutthaya and King Setthathirath of Lan Xang forged a unified heart. The two monarchs formed a bond of friendship to protect their realms. Together, the kings established Phra That Si Song Rak at the midpoint of their borders, a beacon of their faithful pact, vowing never to trespass upon each other’s lands.
From this pure intention of peace, a sacred tradition was born and continues to this day: a prohibition against anyone entering the holy grounds adorned in crimson garments. The color red, a symbol of blood and violence, runs contrary to the stupa’s spirit of peace.
The spirit of Lan Xang is flawlessly captured in the stupa’s very form. A foundation of tiered square bases rises with steadfastness, akin to the promise made. This base supports a delicate, lotus-bud-shaped bell, crowned by a spire tapering gracefully towards the sky. This simple yet profound elegance is a reflection of a sincere and steadfast vow, as unshakeable as the mountains themselves.
The heart of the ceremony is the tradition of offering ‘Ton Phueng’ (beeswax castles).
And that vow is not merely a legend inscribed in brick and mortar; the promise remains vibrant and alive each time the full moon of the sixth lunar month casts its gentle glow. The land of Dan Sai awakens from serenity into a season of faith for the “Phra That Si Song Rak Festival” held in conjunction with the renowned “Bun Luang and Phi Ta Khon Festival.”
The heart of the ceremony is the tradition of offering ‘Ton Phueng’ (beeswax castles). These offerings, born from devotion and toil, are crafted by villagers who painstakingly fashion pure beeswax into small ‘dok phueng’ (beeswax flowers), then arrange them upon elaborate castle-like structures. The sight of processions moving in unison from all directions to present these offerings in devotion is a breathtaking reflection of a faith beyond measure, perpetuating the legacy of sincerity and friendship between the Thai and Lao people… for all time.
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