Travel like the wind : Suchart Choolee
The sun light touches the morning mist, revealing a wondrous natural spectacle before us. Complex mountain ranges stand majestically, like a natural fortress dividing the border. Here, the Thai tricolor flag flutters in the wind. Gazing across to the other side, the flag of a neighboring country appears beside a fence demarcating the boundary on the cliff edge – the site of “Prasat Preah Vihear.” This ancient Khmer sandstone temple, a precious cultural heritage straddling the border, was built in dedication to Shiva, the supreme deity of Shaivism in Hinduism.
Turning back to the Thai side, at Pha Mo I Daeng, the golden light of dawn bathes an exquisite low-relief sandstone carving that recounts ancient legends. It is believed that these carvings, and this cliff face itself, served as a training ground where artisans honed their skills before undertaking the creation of the great temple. This is a story from a bygone era, a time when watershed lines may not have strictly defined land ownership. Yet, the conflict, like a ticking time bomb, has roots partly in the legacy of colonialism, when outsiders drew borders with little regard for the shared cultural and historical ties of the local peoples
The mist gradually dissipates, vanishing. The sun begins to shine brightly, its warmth dispelling the chill – a signal of time’s passage. A troop of local monkeys appears, as if in greeting, awaiting a chance to snatch food. Perhaps wild fruits are less abundant than before, or they simply wish to assert their local dominance… Just as when the world’s resources are limited, contention arises, whether through documented claims or by cunning means of possession.
The sun blazes, a stark reminder to embark towards new destinations. Even a journey in pursuit of happiness may, in truth, be but an escape from inner sorrow. For in the end, we might find ourselves caught in the same old cycles, the same familiar feelings, endlessly recurring. It’s no different from changing places while our inner selves and experiences remain entangled with love, greed, anger, delusion, and aversion…
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The world has been ensnared in such conflict and craving since time immemorial. And so it may continue, until the day nature reclaims its true balance.
Then… perhaps there will be no more overlapping territories, no watershed divides, no markers delineating any domain. And surely, there will be no place left for the selfish.
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Pha Mo I Daeng:
Viewpoint and Location: Pha Mo I Daeng is situated within Khao Phra Wihan National Park, Kantharalak District, Sisaket Province. It is a steep cliff along the Thai-Cambodian border, offering clear views of Prasat Preah Vihear temple and the vast forested, mountainous landscape on the Cambodian side. It is renowned as one of the most beautiful sunrise viewing spots.
Low-Relief Sculptures: Beneath the Pha Mo I Daeng cliff face, there are low-relief stone carvings depicting three deities (believed to be Shiva, Uma, and Vishnu) and other narrative scenes. It is presumed they were created around the 10th-11th centuries CE (Buddhist Era 15th-16th centuries), predating the construction of Prasat Preah Vihear, possibly serving as a prototype or a training site for craftsmen.
Prasat Preah Vihear (Preah Vihear Temple):
Construction: A Hindu sanctuary (Devasthana) dedicated to Shiva. Construction began around the 10th century CE (Buddhist Era 15th century) during the reign of King Yasovarman I, with further additions by several subsequent Khmer kings. It is considered a masterpiece of ancient Khmer architecture, situated atop Preah Vihear Mountain (part of the Dangrek Mountain Range).
Prominent Features: The temple complex extends along a north-south axis, facing north (towards Thailand). It comprises multiple gopuras (monumental gateways) linked by causeways and staircases that follow the natural gradient of the hill.
Dispute and International Court of Justice (ICJ) Rulings:
Background: The border dispute concerning Preah Vihear Temple originated from the demarcation between Siam (Thailand) and France (then the colonial power in Indochina) in the early 20th century (1904-1907 CE). The map drawn up by France, which formed the basis for the border treaty, depicted the temple as being within Cambodian territory.
1962 Judgment (B.E. 2505): The International Court of Justice (ICJ) ruled that Prasat Preah Vihear is situated in territory under the sovereignty of Cambodia.
2013 Interpretative Judgment (B.E. 2556): The ICJ delivered an interpretative judgment of its 1962 ruling, affirming that Cambodia has sovereignty over the whole territory of the “promontory of Preah Vihear” and ordering Thailand to withdraw any military, police, or other Thai forces or guards stationed in that area. Both countries are currently engaged in discussions to implement the judgment.
Pha Mo I Daeng Visiting Hours (Khao Phra Wihan National Park – Thai Side):
Generally, the national park is open daily from approximately 05:00 to 18:00 (to accommodate sunrise and sunset viewing). It is advisable to check the latest information with the park authorities before your trip.
Conclusion:
A visit to Pha Mo I Daeng is not merely an encounter with natural beauty and historical remnants; it is an invitation to contemplate the intricate relationships between humanity, territory, and time. Indeed, however magnificent the wonders crafted by human hands, their raw materials, foundations, and inspiration invariably stem from nature in one form or another. Standing at this demarcation line, gazing across at a World Heritage site once mired in conflict, one realizes that while the winds may have dispersed the mists of past disputes, the imprints and lessons remain. They are etched into the landscape for future generations to learn from and to navigate the path forward with greater understanding.
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