Baan Hollanda, the former Dutch village in Ayutthaya
Travel Like The Wind : Suchart Choolee
At the entrance of the Dutch Village in Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, several large and small old ships rest on wooden supports. Across from them lies a brick foundation believed to have once been a Dutch trading post. These Dutch seafarers had journeyed across vast oceans guided by compasses, maps, and sails, bound for lands they referred to as the “Far East.”
Western maritime expeditions in the 17th century (Buddhist Era 21st century) emerged in the context of fierce competition for spice trade routes, which promised immense profits. Portugal and Spain had long dominated the seas under the Treaty of Tordesillas. However, when English and Dutch fleets united to challenge this monopoly, new opportunities opened up for Dutch traders to freely access trade routes throughout Asia.
The Dutch began expanding their influence from Java and Sumatra to the Malay Peninsula, Pattani, Malacca, and eventually established commercial roots in the Kingdom of Ayutthaya. The Dutch presence in Siam in the early 17th century was not merely about exchanging goods—it was a well-planned strategic move in regional trade.
The establishment of the Dutch East India Company, or VOC (Verenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie), in 1602 (B.E. 2145), marked a crucial turning point in Dutch trade in Asia. VOC was granted exclusive rights by the Dutch government to trade, build warships, negotiate treaties, and occupy territories—essentially functioning with powers akin to a sovereign state.
That same year, the Dutch set up their first trading station in Pattani, with Daniel van der Leck as director. Pattani became the gateway to access the Kingdom of Ayutthaya. In 1604 (B.E. 2147), a Dutch envoy led by Cornelis Specx arrived in Ayutthaya and was granted an audience with King Naresuan the Great, establishing a formal trade agreement. By 1608 (B.E. 2151), VOC officially founded its trading post in Ayutthaya.
Goods exchanged included spices, cotton fabrics, animal hides, ivory, and forest products from Siam. VOC used Ayutthaya as a key regional hub to connect with products from China, Japan, and other areas—allowing them to bypass direct trade with China.
Inside the newly restored two-story building at the Dutch Village, the ground floor offers a space for visitors to rest and explore various displays. The upper floor houses a museum narrating the stories of Dutch maritime voyages, showcasing pens, paper, compasses, maps, sails, as well as everyday utensils, trade items, and artifacts representing Dutch identity and culture. The early relationship between Siam and the Netherlands was amicable, with strong trade ties and occasional military cooperation. The Dutch once supported the Siamese court in its military efforts against Pattani, receiving numerous trade privileges in return.
However, political dynamics evolved. During the reign of King Narai the Great, Siam fostered closer ties with France, which worried the Dutch and led them to gradually reduce their influence. Later, with the rise of King Phetracha, who expelled the French from Siam, the Dutch regained their prominence by supporting the new regime.
Yet tensions never completely disappeared. In 1760 (B.E. 2303), during the reign of King Uthumphon, conflicts between the Dutch and locals erupted, resulting in the Dutch losing several privileges and diminishing trade relations over time.
Pens, paper, compasses, maps, and sails were not merely tools of navigation—they symbolized the networks of economic and political power being forged in the modern world. The relationship between Siam and the Netherlands reflects one of the earliest waves of globalization.
In a regional context, the Dutch extended their influence far beyond Ayutthaya, asserting control across Southeast Asia, including Indonesia, Malacca, Timor, and Bali. The VOC operated as a parallel state—conducting trade, building cities, setting up naval outposts, and dispatching diplomatic missions.The legacy of Dutch–Siamese relations remains visible at the Baan Hollanda (Dutch House) in Ayutthaya. This building, once a Dutch trading post, has been transformed into a museum and learning center dedicated to the historic Thai–Dutch relationship.
Though centuries have passed since the age of colonial exploration, the traces left behind—artifacts, architecture, and stories—still offer lessons and insights into one of the earliest global connections between East and West.
Stay tuned for Pens, Paper, Compass, Map, and Sail (3).
Sources:
- Ayutthaya Historical Park. Archaeological Operations Report of the Dutch Village, Khlong Suan Phlu Subdistrict, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya District, 2009 (Compiled by Worapot Hiranyawutthikun).
- Anongkanna Manitpisitkul. Thailand and Western Nations during the Ayutthaya Period. Bangkok: Pyramid Press, 2002.
- Kampol Champaphan. Romphruek Journal, Krirk University: “Baan Hollanda – From Ayutthaya Port Society to Thai–Dutch History Center”, 2015.
- Nattapong Chimma. Trade and Diplomatic Relations between Ayutthaya and the Netherlands: From Baan Hollanda to the Baan Hollanda Museum, 2018.
- Nattasuda Kheerepetch. The 1664 Trade Treaty between Ayutthaya and the Netherlands (Thesis), 2013.
Editor: Mr. Nattapong Chimma, Cultural Officer, Archaeology Group, Fine Arts Department Region 3, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya.
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