Travel like the wind : Suchart Choolee
The sound of monks chanting their evening prayers drifted from the Ubosot (ordination hall) while I was engrossed in admiring the mural paintings in the Phra Phutthakosachan’s residence. Time, wind, and sunlight may have caused these exquisite paintings to fade somewhat, yet some still vividly narrate stories, conveying the emotions of the artists who created them. Whenever I feel the urge to go somewhere to relax, learn, and reflect on historical scenes from different eras, it’s no surprise that I choose this royal monastery, situated on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River in Samphao Lom sub-district, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya.
Legend has it that King Ramathibodi I (King Uthong) originally established a royal pavilion here after migrating to the area, before founding Krung Si Ayutthaya as the capital city. Once Krung Si Ayutthaya was established, in 1896 BE (1353 AD), he graciously commanded that this pavilion be transformed into a religious sanctuary, a royal monument.
This is recorded in the Royal Chronicles: “In the year 715 of the Chula Sakarat era, the year of the Snake, a benjasok (fifth year of the decade), corresponding to 1896 BE (1353 AD), on Thursday, the first day of the waxing moon of the fourth lunar month, at the second nalika and fifth bat, His Majesty graciously commanded that the Wiang Lek Royal Residence be established as a Vihara (sermon hall) and a Phra Maha That (great stupa), forming a monastery to be named Wat Phutthaisawan.”
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I walked through an archway surrounding the main Prang, which is encircled by a cloister. The cloister’s outer wall is solid, while the inner side features pillars supporting the roof structure and eaves at intervals. Radiant golden Buddha images in the Sukhothai style encompass the “Phra Maha That,” or the main Prang, an example of Khmer prasat-style architecture, facing east. Climbing the stairs led to the enshrinement chamber, passing through an archway flanked by Buddha images and a replica of the Buddha’s footprint.
The spire of this chedi (stupa) enshrines sacred Buddha relics. Behind the Prang, a black Reclining Buddha (Phra Phuttha Saiyat) is enshrined on a raised platform (Paithee).I bowed in reverence, not to ask for fortune or blessings, but to commemorate the virtues and the unwavering faith of our ancestors who diligently built this sacred place,
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allowing later generations to glimpse the glorious days of that era.
A small bird swooped down to perch on the cloister roof as I sat watching the sun cast its final rays before a statue of King Uthong. Then, I decided to stroll along the temple’s embankment. I saw people of two different generations sitting and watching the swift current, where a small boat bobbed precariously along.
The fading sun seemed to bid farewell as travelers admired the beauty of the river, the sunset, the houses, and the way of life on both banks of the Chao Phraya.
And so, the final scene of the day drew to a close. A little child on their grandfather’s lap began to fuss, wanting to go home. We waved goodbye.
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Where History Breathes in Ayutthaya
“Every discovery has its end… but at least the winds of friendship brought us together, even if only for a brief moment.
In the ceaseless passage from one day to the next, from the present into the unknown future, and through all we are destined to encounter, that such a meeting occurs is truly a miracle..
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