TravelLikeTheWind : Suchart Choolee
On the western bank of the Chao Phraya River, at the entrance of Khlong Bangkok Yai—formerly known as Khlong Bang Luang—stand two of Thailand’s most historically significant landmarks: the Old Palace (Phra Ratcha Wang Derm) and Wichai Prasit Fort. These sites are not merely architectural remnants of the past; they serve as enduring witnesses to Thailand’s struggles, restorations, and defense during times of great national transformation.
Wichai Prasit Fort, originally known as Pom Bangkok or Pom Bangkok Yai, was constructed during the reign of King Narai the Great as a riverine fortress to protect the western approaches to Ayutthaya. It was later reinforced and modernized by Chao Phraya Wichayen (Constantine Phaulkon), a Greek adventurer and influential figure in the Siamese court during the late Ayutthaya period. The fort was initially named Pom Wichayen in his honor before being renamed Pom Wichai Prasit.
This fortress was not only a military bastion but also a pivotal site in a key historical episode known as the Siege of Bangkok (อังกฤษ: Siege of Bangkok, ฝรั่งเศส: Siège de Bangkok) in 1688 (B.E. 2231). Following a dramatic shift in royal power after the death of King Narai, King Phetracha assumed the throne and ordered over 40,000 Siamese troops, equipped with cannons, to lay siege to the French-held fort, which was defended by only about 200 French soldiers. The standoff lasted four months without a clear military outcome.
Eventually, tensions eased through diplomatic negotiations. The French agreed to withdraw from Siam, leaving only a small number of missionaries. The Siege of Bangkok marked a turning point in Thai-French relations, leading to a steep decline in French influence in Siam. Meanwhile, other European powers—such as the Dutch, English, and Portuguese—continued to trade with Siam, albeit with increasing difficulty and restrictions.
Just beyond Wichai Prasit Fort lies the Old Palace, which later became the royal residence and center of governance during the Thonburi Period. After the fall of Ayutthaya to Burmese forces in 1767 (B.E. 2310), Phraya Wachira Prakan—later known as King Taksin the Great—gathered loyal troops from the eastern provinces, especially from Chanthaburi, and heroically fought his way back to central Thailand. He successfully reclaimed the old capital and restored national sovereignty.
But King Taksin did more than liberate Siam; he revitalized its economy, society, and religion, and reunited the fractured land into one cohesive kingdom. He established Thonburi as the new capital and chose the Old Palace as his royal residence and the administrative heart of the nation.
Although his reign was relatively brief, King Taksin’s legacy is deeply engraved in Thai history. His unwavering courage and sacrifices for the nation have made him a revered figure and a symbol of patriotism. The Old Palace stands today as a lasting monument to his greatness.
Together, the Old Palace and Wichai Prasit Fort are not mere remnants of the past, but sacred landmarks that remind us of the trials of the nation, the ever-changing tides of history, and the resilient Thai spirit that has never yielded to adversity.
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