Chapter 1.
Ayotthaya and the Legend of Luang Pho To (Sam Por Kong) at Wat Phananchoeng: A Love Story and Trade Route Connecting Siam and China
Travel Like The Wind – Suchart Choolee
Ayotthaya and the Legend of Luang Pho To (Sam Por Kong) at Wat Phananchoeng: A Love Story and Trade Route Connecting Siam and China
Before the founding of Ayutthaya in 1350 CE, the city of Ayodhya—or “Nakhon Phra Ram” as referred to in ancient inscriptions and documents—was already a significant urban settlement. Modern scholars such as Srisakra Vallibhotama and Manit Vallibhotama argue that Ayutthaya did not emerge from a vacuum, but rather evolved from this earlier city of Ayodhya, located on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River—precisely where Wat Phananchoeng stands today.
A powerful testament to this historical continuity is the image of Phra Phuttha Trairattanayok, more widely known as Luang Pho To, a large Buddha image in the U Thong artistic tradition. According to the Royal Chronicle of Luang Prasoet Aksonnit, this statue was constructed 26 years before Ayutthaya was established, making it one of the earliest tangible links to the city’s pre-foundation history.
A well-known legend surrounding the temple’s origin tells of a love story that transcended borders—between King Sai Nam Phueng of Ayodhya and Princess Soi Dok Mak of a Chinese royal lineage. A royal astrologer is said to have foretold that their union was one of destiny—”Bupphesanniwat,” or fated lovers. The king sailed to China aboard the royal barge Ekachai, where he was received with great honor. After the royal wedding, the couple returned to Ayodhya with a fleet of Chinese junks and artisans. However, the king traveled ahead to prepare a royal residence for the princess, failing to return to personally escort her ashore.
Deeply offended and heartbroken, Princess Soi Dok Mak refused to disembark. Overwhelmed with sorrow, she ultimately died aboard her vessel. Devastated, the king ordered her body to be brought ashore at Laem Bang Kacha and decreed that a temple be built at the site. He named it “Wat Phra Chao Phra Nang Choeng,” which, over time, evolved linguistically into Wat Phananchoeng.
Strategically located at the confluence of the Chao Phraya and Pa Sak Rivers, Wat Phananchoeng sits at what was once a vital artery of commerce and transportation in ancient Siam. This particular junction was notorious for its strong currents, posing a peril to navigation. Local legend has it that one of the princess’s ships capsized in these waters—giving rise to the name “Samphao Lom” (Sinking Junk), still known today as a place name.
Inside the temple is the sacred image of Luang Pho To, revered by both Thais and Chinese alike—especially the Teochew Chinese, who call him Sam Por Kong, the deity protector of maritime travelers. It’s long been tradition for Chinese merchants and overseas Chinese communities to come and pay homage to him before embarking on any voyage, seeking blessings for safe passage and prosperity.
Thus, Wat Phananchoeng has never been just a religious center. It stands as a cultural nexus—a shared spiritual space and a symbol of enduring ties between Siam and China. These connections have spanned centuries, not only through commerce but also diplomacy and cultural exchange. The famed Inscription of King Ramkhamhaeng from the Sukhothai era even references trade with a range of foreign civilizations, including China.
As goods like pens, paper, maps, compasses, silk, and sailing ships arrived from across the seas along the maritime Silk Road, they carried with them not only tangible commodities but also new ideas, beliefs, and ways of life. In return, Siamese culture reached distant shores through this same network of exchange. Wat Phananchoeng, therefore, is far more than a royal monastery—it is a gateway to history, a place where two great civilizations once met and continue to do so, through faith, trade, and the timeless current of shared heritage.
References:
- Sombat Playnoy. (1983). Thai Folklore Legends. Bangkok: Silpa Bannakarn.
→ Used as a reference for the legend of King Sai Nam Phueng and Lady Soi Dok Mak. - Fine Arts Department. History of Wat Phananchoeng Worawihan. Official website of Wat Phananchoeng Worawihan.
→ Used for information about Wat Phananchoeng and Phra Phuttha Trairattanayok (Luang Pho To / Sam Por Kong). - Sujit Wongthes. (2009). Ayutthaya: History and Politics. Bangkok: Matichon Publishing.
→ Used for issues related to the settlement of Ayutthaya and the transition from the city of Ayodhya. - Srisakra Vallibhotama and Manit Vallibhotama.
→ Used for the archaeological proposal that the original capital of Ayutthaya was the ancient city of Ayodhya on the eastern bank. - Lek-Prapai Viriyaphant Foundation. (n.d.). Academic article on ancient cities and waterway trade.
→ Used to support geographic context and the importance of Wat Phananchoeng as a central trading hub. - Inscription of King Ramkhamhaeng the Great. (19th Buddhist century).
→ Used to discuss trade relations between Siam and China during the Sukhothai period. - Pre-Mahathammaracha Lithai Sukhothai Inscription.
→ References the names “Ayodhyasri Ramthepnakorn” and “Nakhon Phra Ram”.
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