Travel Like the Wind : Suchart Choolee
In the western lands of Thailand, Ratchaburi province is renowned for more than its dragon jars and the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. Deep beneath its soil lies the “Ancient City of Khu Bua,” the remnant of a great capital of the Dvaravati civilization and a vital gateway to the splendor of its religion, art, and governance from over 1,400 years ago.
This ancient city is presumed to have been a major capital of the Dvaravati kingdom on its western frontier between the 6th and 11th centuries CE. Its physical layout reveals sophisticated urban planning, with a moat and earthen ramparts forming a massive, rounded-corner rectangle covering over 2,000 rai (320 hectares). This reflects a high capacity for resource management and systematic defense. Due to its strategic location near the ancient coastline, Khu Bua thrived as a port city and commercial hub, connecting its people with overseas civilizations, especially India—the origin of the Buddhism and artistic inspiration that flourished during that era.
This very overseas influence crystallized into a unique artistic identity, reflecting the Indian Gupta and Post-Gupta styles but masterfully blended with local beliefs and aesthetics by Dvaravati artisans. The heart of Khu Bua’s art lies in its stucco and terracotta sculptures, discovered at various archaeological sites, particularly the masterpieces from Stupa No. 44. These include figures of royalty, deities, musicians, animals, and narrative scenes from the Jataka tales. The sculptures are distinguished by their lifelike faces, diverse emotional expressions, and distinctly local features, serving as a testament to the high skill of the craftsmen and their profound Buddhist faith. Furthermore, the discovery of inscriptions in the ancient Pallava script is another crucial piece of evidence confirming the city’s sophistication.
For this reason, the ancient city of Khu Bua is not mere ruins; it is a vital history book that records the prosperity of the Dvaravati civilization. Its role as both a great administrative center and a spiritual hub of immense faith reflects a complex and enlightened society. This legacy is a priceless treasure, waiting for future generations to study, learn, and carry forward the spirit of their ancestors, ensuring it endures in the land of Thailand.
References
- The Fine Arts Department. (2017). A Guide to the Ratchaburi National Museum and the Story of the Ancient City of Khu Bua. Bangkok: Office of the National Museums.
- Sinsing, Sakchai. (2008). Dvaravati Art: The Early Religious Culture in Thailand. Bangkok: Muang Boran Publishing.
- Database of Major Archaeological Sites in Thailand, Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn Anthropology Centre (Public Organization). “Ancient City of Khu Bua”. Retrieved from [Official SAC website or relevant database].
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