Travel Like the Wind : Suchart Choolee
It has been many years since I last visited this island. Returning this time, I witnessed the changes that time has brought. Yet, one thing remains unchanged: the enchanting allure of its white sandy beaches and clear waters that greet you upon arrival. Colorful beach umbrellas are lined up, under which foreign tourist families sunbathe on loungers while their children joyfully build sandcastles and play in the sea. The sound of live music blends with the wind and waves, creating a beautiful afternoon serenade.
It is said that this island was the inspiration for Thailand’s great poet, Sunthorn Phu, to create his immortal epic, “Phra Aphai Mani.” This is why we see the statue of the “Sea Ogress” (Nang Phuea Samut) standing majestically at the pier, welcoming and bidding farewell to visitors. She stands as a symbol of her great yet tragic love for Phra Aphai Mani, a love that ultimately left her heartbroken.
As the afternoon sun began to descend, I sat, letting my mind drift, enjoying the scene before me. The fine white sand stretched out, contrasting with the vibrant blue sky. Tourists were having fun, playing in the waves that endlessly crashed ashore. I abandoned all plans, allowing time to pass slowly. Simply sitting, watching what I saw, listening to the music mingled with laughter, and gazing at the shapes of the drifting clouds with a feeling of lightness and ease… In this moment, right now, this was enough to feel liberated.
When the last light of day faded, the nightlife of Koh Samet came alive. Vibrant lights from beachfront restaurants and food carts beckoned tourists to taste delicious food, accompanied by lively music that filled the air. But the highlight was the fire-twirling show, where blazing flames danced to the rhythm of the music, drawing applause and excitement from the crowd. The night of liberation passed by all too quickly. It was a soothing feeling, as if the sound of Phra Aphai Mani’s flute had cast a spell, pulling me into a tranquil trance.
When the last light of day faded, the nightlife of Koh Samet came alive. Vibrant lights from beachfront restaurants and food carts beckoned tourists to taste delicious food, accompanied by lively music that filled the air. But the highlight was the fire-twirling show, where blazing flames danced to the rhythm of the music, drawing applause and excitement from the crowd. The night of liberation passed by all too quickly.
The next morning, my relaxed plan was a boat trip to admire the beauty of the underwater world and nearby islands. This included snorkeling to see the coral and visiting the iconic “Khao Tha lu” (the island with a hole), before returning to soak in the evening atmosphere on the island one last time.
Happy moments always seem to pass by too quickly. The dawn of a new day brought with it the reality of departure, but I chose to sit still, absorbing and committing everything to memory while waiting for the car to the pier. The majestic sculpture of the Sea Ogress standing there caught my attention once again as our boat slowly pulled away from the dock.
That image made me imagine the scene where she cried and begged Phra Aphai Mani not to leave her. Who wouldn’t have their heart shattered by the single word “love”? The pain of a wife and a mother. She lost everything—her love, and the child who left before her very eyes. Whether in the role of a literary character or in the scenes of real life, “love, hate, and separation” are a natural part of existence.
The boat rode the waves toward Ban Phe Pier, the gateway to the world of reality. Even so, this return visit to Koh Samet has given me precious memories and helped soothe my soul, allowing me to return with renewed energy.
Koh Samet in Literature
- Koh Samet or “Koh Kaew Pitsadan”: Linking Koh Samet to the “Crystal Isle” from the epic poem, Phra Aphai Mani.
- Sunthorn Phu: A brief biography of the poet and his connection to the city of Rayong, which inspired his writing.
- The Legend of the Sea Ogress (Nang Phuea Samut): A summary of the tragic love story that has become a symbol of the island.
Attractions on Koh Samet and in the Vicinity
- Hat Sai Kaew (Glass Sand Beach): The most popular beach, the center of activities and accommodations.
- Ao Phrao (Coconut Bay): A quiet bay, perfect for relaxation and watching the sunset.
- Ao Wong Duean (Crescent Moon Bay), Ao Phai (Bamboo Bay): Lively atmospheres with a variety of restaurants and bars.
- Khao Laem Ya–Mu Ko Samet National Park: A viewpoint on the Rayong mainland and other marine activities.
- Koh Thalu: A popular spot for snorkeling and seeing coral reefs.
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