Travel Like the Wind : Suchart Choolee
A small cable car carries travelers across the Chao Phraya River from the parking lot of the Bang Pa-In Royal Palace, like crossing through a time portal into a realm of serenity. This short journey over the water is not merely a means of transport, but a preparation of the mind to receive the positive energy that awaits at the destination: ‘Wat Niwet Thammaprawat Ratchaworawihan.’
As your feet touch the ground of the mid-river island, the first thing that captivates the eye and challenges all preconceptions of a Buddhist temple is the majestic Gothic architecture standing before you. The temple’s ubosot (ordination hall) resembles a Christian church, with its towering spires piercing the sky and arched windows adorned with stained glass intricately depicting stories from the life of the Buddha. This was the profound royal intention of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), who commissioned the temple’s construction in B.E. 2419 (1876 A.D.) to serve as the royal temple paired with the Bang Pa-In Palace. His Majesty intended to adapt the Western architectural styles popular at the time for the construction of a Thai temple.
The various buildings within the temple, from the hall housing the Phra Khanthanarat Buddha image to the monks’ quarters, all bear a European architectural influence. Yet, beneath this unconventional exterior, the essence and spirit remain that of a completely Buddhist sanctuary. The principal Buddha image in the ubosot is the ‘Phra Phuttha Naruemon Thammophot,’ a beautiful example of traditional Buddhist artistry. Wat Niwet Thammaprawat is, therefore, a powerful metaphor for a ‘Thainess’ that is open to embracing all civilizations. We can wear Western fashion, speak multiple languages, or admire art from every corner of the globe, but our inner core, spirit, and roots remain steadfast. Nothing can change the Thai blood that flows within us.
As the mind fills with peace and positive energy, glancing back towards the parking lot on the other bank reveals a different sight. The once-bustling shops now appear quiet and desolate. Some remain open, but most have closed down over time. It is the universal truth of change that affects everything, no different from the lives of people who must adapt to the times. Ultimately, a visit to Wat Niwet Thammaprawat today is not just about seeing a beautiful and unusual temple; it’s about reflecting on our own identity.
No matter what the modern era brings, we might cross horizons to change our nationality or adapt our lifestyles to other cultures. We may travel like the wind, blowing across every corner of the globe, yet the blood and DNA pumping through our veins is the bloodline of ‘Thainess’ that never fades away.
Sources
Cultural Data Center, Ministry of Culture: “Wat Niwet Thammaprawat Ratchaworawihan” http://www.m-culture.go.th/ayutthaya/ewt_news.php?nid=71
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT): “Wat Niwet Thammaprawat Ratchaworawihan” https://thai.tourismthailand.org/Attraction/วัดนิเวศธรรมประวัติราชวรวิหาร
Dhammathai.org: “History of Wat Niwet Thammaprawat Ratchaworawihan, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya” http://www.dhammathai.org/watthai/central/watniwet.php
National Office of Buddhism: Temple Registration Information in Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Province
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